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The méthode champenoise is a centuries-old craft that has been perfected and regulated over time. However, over the years, winemakers have experimented with new and sometimes strange techniques in order to enhance the flavours and textures in their wines. These techniques can range from tending to their vines in unusual ways, aging wine in unorthodox vessels, or implementing unconventional fermentation methods.
In this article, we will explore some of the most intriguing and bizarre winemaking techniques that have emerged in recent years, and the extraordinary wines they create.
Michel Loriot - Champagne Apollonis
Replacing insectiside with Mozart
Michel Loriot is a renowned champagne producer in the village of Festigny, in the Marne region of Champagne. Loriot's approach to grape growing is based on the principles of biodynamics, which views the vineyard as a living ecosystem and seeks to enhance the natural vitality and health of the soil, plants, and animals within it. To achieve this, Loriot uses natural fertilizers, composts, and herbal preparations to nourish his vines, and plays classical symphonies in the vineyards to improve their resilience to disease and pests. Yes, you read that right: he serenades the vines with music!
When this comes up in conversation, most people chuckle and roll their eyes. However, since implementing the practice in 2012 the vines have been thriving, and even growing towards the speakers. Many thought leaders in the industry believe that the reverberations caused by certain notes help the plants to create specific amino acids, as well as scaring away certain criters.
Michel Loriot and his family listening in to the winery speakers - Image from Michel Loriot Champagne facebook
The playlist is decided upon depending on the season, but most are classical compositions which are also played in the cellars to encourage healthy fermentation.
Champagne Marc Augustin
Harnessing the metaphysical powers of gemstones
If you have ever met Marc and his wife Emmanuelle, you will know that they are firm believers in holistic and alternative therapies. In fact Emmanuelle is a reflexologist and homeopath, and her practices are applied to the family's "cœurviculture" – winemaking with heart.
The grapes used in the production of their champagnes are sourced exclusively from their own vineyards, which have seen no chemicals in the three generations they have been owned by the Augustin family. The Augustins treat their vines well, and in return they are given abundant high quality grapes from their 9.5 hectares.
They are commited to maintaining this holistic appraoch and are always experimenting with new natural techniques, including burying their bottles in a cave under their vines, and fermenting certain cuvees with gemstones.
Not only is their cellar full of amethyst geodes to absorb negative energy and help block certain electromagnetic frequencies, but they also use special stones inside some of the vats.
The 100% meunier cuvee named Coeur Saphyr, is made with the additon of a natural sapphire during the first fermentation. Sapphire is said to promote spiritual wakening, clarity, purity and depth of thought.
This wine has turned out so well that they are experimenting with different types of gemstones including amethyst and many more.
Watch this space...
Champagne Leclerc Briant
24ct gold barrels
Being one of the precursors of biodynamic champagne, Herve Jestin has always been known for his unconventional techniques in winemaking. One of the most recent is the addition of a 24 ct gold lined barrel. Goldorak, as it has been named, is made from stainless steel, but lined with 2 microns of gold, which equates to over a kilo in total.
Images from GD Industries
The 250 kilo vessel was made in 2016 by GD Industries specifically for Leclerc-Briant. It currently contains juices from the La Croisette micro parcel in Epernay. The idea is to let the wine mature in three different vessels: oak, terracotta eggs and gold. Gold, being the purest metal, is full of energy and Jestin and his team are hoping that this will be bountifully reflected in the wine.
These are just a few of the visionaries of Champagne pushing the boundaries of winemaking. Whether you believe in the uncommon approach or not, these winemakers are attaining cult status and many of their wines sell out to a discerning clientele. If you're commited to tasting all facets of champagne, then I recommend you try to get your hands on a few bottles.
If you never taste, you never know...
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