Foil Me Once: The Changing Face and Regulations of Champagne Packaging

The Origin and Evolution of the Neck Foil

The neck foil, or coiffe, has adorned champagne bottles for nearly 200 years. Initially introduced to hide underfilled bottles, and protect the string muselet from cellar critters. Back when disgorgement and dosage were carried out manually, producers couldn't guarantee that each bottle would be filled to the brim, which led some shopkeepers to request that the bottles be "dressed" to hide any discrepancies. The coiffe was created, and bottles continued flying off the shelves.

Paul Cézanne, Pommes, bouteille et chaise, 1905 One of the first portrayals of the coiffe or bottle neck sleeve, was in Paul Cézanne's still life of 1905 when this embellishment had been commonplace for decades.

It has since become an emblematic part of champagne packaging. In 1999, the EU made foils mandatory for all sparkling wines for hygiene and safety reasons. However, with the EU Green Deal in August 2023, the necessity of the neck foil was reassessed, leading to its liberalisation, and much controversy. The questions brought up all boil down to one key issue:

Does a more ecological option tarnish the luxury image of champagne?

While some producers quickly moved to abandon the neck foil, citing ecological concerns, the CIVC is now pushing to make it a mandatory part of the cahier des charges (regulations). They argue that consumer studies indicate a strong attachment to the neck foil as an identifier of champagne. However, this move, like many of the strict regulations enforced by the Comité Champagne, could restrict the creative and ecological freedoms of individual winemakers.

Winemaker Emeline Desloovere, from the Coteaux Sud d'Épernay, has become a prominent figure in the movement to eliminate the neck foil. Recognising the environmental impact of the traditional aluminium/plastic blend foil which is rarely recyclable, she pioneered the use of paper strips as an alternative. Her approach is rooted in a broader commitment to sustainability, encompassing both viticulture and vinification practices.

While her paper coiffe is not yet perfected, particularly in terms of folding, it represents a significant step toward reducing their carbon footprint. The European regulation mandates that bottle corks must be covered, but does not specify the extent. Taking advantage of this, Desloovere designed a simple paper band, which she personally crafted and applied by hand. Although this tripled the time required for this task, she believes the environmental benefits justify the effort.

Olivier Horiot has also decided to give the foil the cold shoulder and shipped out his first bottles décoiffées to Paris' hottest new opening: champagne bar Bubble Bliss. Chief Champagne Officer Yuri "Champanique" Guzeev commends Olivier for his forward-thinking approach: "Not only he’s a great person, but his wines could also be considered among the benchmarks of organic and sustainable champagnes from Les Riceys.⁣"

Yuri is not the only one in favour of the removal of the coiffe. "The best way is naked!" exclaims Ludovic du Plessis, the President of Champagne Telmont, who shares that plans are in motion to lighten up their packaging as much as possible, including removing the foil and even looking at a muselet with three instead of four branches. The green house of Telmont which is co-owned by Hollywood's heartthrob and eco-crusader Leonardo Di Caprio, has recently banished all gift boxes, started working with bottles of various hues, and has collaborated with glass manufacturer Verallia to reduce the bottle by another 35g. Removing the foil would seem like a natural progression for Ludovic. And many others.

"The best way is naked!" exclaims Ludovic du Plessis

Image from the Telmont "193,000 shades of green" campaign

But not the CIVC, who maintain that the carbon impact of traditional neck foils is minimal, accounting for only 0.6 percent of the appellation's total carbon footprint. It remains committed to the traditional neck foil, viewing it as integral to Champagne's identity. The historical significance of the metal coiffe, invented by the Champenois and a strong identifier of champagne, cannot be overlooked. It has played a role in the collective imagination and the ritual of opening a champagne bottle. They do note, however, that switching to paper neck foils could reduce this footprint by 93 percent.

With the role of the neck foil having evolved, it now serves primarily a decorative purpose. Given this shift, there is a compelling argument for allowing winemakers the flexibility to choose whether to use the neck foil or opt for more sustainable packaging alternatives.

Some producers are experimenting with different materials: Champagne Grande Charte implemented a fully recyclable 100% tin coiffe on all their cuvées that they launched in 2018. Maison Ruinart followed suit for its Blanc Singulier cuvée in 2023 with 100% aluminium foil.

Champagne Pierre Trichet is the first to experiment with a full paper coiffe. It is manufactured by Vipalux in Billerüd’s FibreForm; shaping the material and attaching it to the neck of the bottle required much adaptation, and improvements are still being made.

In other news, a small producer in Janvry, Champagne CH. de L’AUCHE, has recently trialled a wooden capsule. A patent exclusive to them, the plaque is crafted from oak by the Tonnellerie de Champagne, and is only available on a limited edition run of 100 bottles. These pieces are sure to become highly collectible.

This scintillating debate over packaging highlights the delicate balance between tradition and innovation in Champagne. Emeline Desloovere's story exemplifies how winemakers can honour the rich heritage of Champagne while embracing ecological responsibility and individuality. Allowing winemakers the flexibility to decide how they present their bottles respects their creativity and commitment to sustainability. Whether the neck foil remains a staple of champagne packaging or becomes a relic of the past, one thing is certain: Champagne will continue to evolve, with each producer contributing uniquely to the region's illustrious legacy.

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